Following our relaxing stay in Havelock North, we drove one hundred and sixty miles to Whakapapa, based in the Tongariro National Park.
The Tongariro National Park is home to the volcanic peaks of Ngauruhoe, Tongariro and Ruapehu and is ranked as one of the top ten day walks in the world.
As we drove up to Whakapapa we were greeted with the sight of the beautiful Chateau Tongariro Hotel in front of Mount Ruapehu. This stunning place was where Andrea and Marcus got married. Unfortunately we weren’t staying here on our backpacker budget, so we turned left directly behind the Chateau and drove one hundred metres up the road to Skotel, the highest hotel in New Zealand and our haven for the next couple of nights.
Whilst our hotel was basic, imagine a ski hotel from the sixties with wood chip everywhere, it had everything we needed and a wonderful view of Mount Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, the place of our Tongariro Crossing planned for the next day.
We were picked up bright and early at seven o’clock the following morning and transferred to the Mangatapopo Carpark where the Tongariro Crossing walk begins.
Although it was dark and chilly, the weather forecast predicted perfect walking conditions for us. Clear blue skies, a mild breeze and a temperature of fourteen degrees at altitude was more than we hoped for having heard stories from others who completed the walk in strong winds, belting rain and freezing cold conditions only weeks before.
The early start meant that as we started our walk to the Mangatapopo Hut the sun was rising directly in front of us and peeking up over the side of Mount Ngauruhoe, we were at times blinded by the light and unable to see more than two steps in front of us. As we enjoyed the flatness of the first part of the walk, we were chasing the regressing shadow of Mount Ngauruhoe in front of us.
We reached the first hut with a spring in our step and lots of energy, which was a good thing considering we had our first ascent of the day ahead of us. As we walked up the zigzagged path from Soda Springs to the South Crater, we were rewarded with spectacular views of Mount Ngauruhoe and were even able to see Mount Taranaki, over one hundred miles away, on the horizon.
As we walked across the South Crater we had the summit of Mount Ngauruhoe towering above us on the right, the most active of the vents on Tongariro it last erupted in nineteen seventy five. The South Crater was vast and a welcome relief of flat walking for a while before the next ascent up to the Red Crater.
Walking up the side of Mount Tongariro to the Red Crater, the ground was steep and covered in sharp volcanic rocks. Thankfully a trodden path was visible the whole way, enabling us to walk freely without fear of turning over on our ankles. We were wearing our trusty trainers for the walk, not hiking boots as were recommended, but so far our trainers were more than up to the job.
Reaching the Red Crater was breathtaking, looking down on it from our spot on the side of Mount Tongariro we had a clear view of the inside of the crater which last erupted in nineteen twenty six.
The Red Crater was the highest point of our walk at one thousand eight hundred and eighty six metres above sea level and whilst I should have been ecstatic about not having to do anymore steep ascents, I was already fearful of the walk/slide down a ridge on the other side of Mount Tongariro.
With fine loose rock underfoot (like shale) I tentatively followed Rich down the steep ridge towards the Emerald Lakes. Heading straight down was not an option unless you wanted to go head over heels, so we walked in tight zigzags, every step sliding a few centimetres underfoot. It felt more like skiing on really bad snow than walking!
As we descended Mount Tongariro the Emerald Lakes came into view. An array of lakes glowed bright green below us in the morning sun and with their setting in the space like landscape, they looked truly bizarre.
At the end of the loose rock descent, we headed out across the Central Crater. Unknown to us, we were walking next to a massive old lava flow. It was only when we looked back across the crater to Mount Tongariro and the Red Crater that we were able to see the black like mass settled within the crater.
After a short climb out of the Central Crater we were right next to the sacred Blue Lake, as bright as the sky above us it was the last of the incredible lakes on display on the crossing.
Although the spectacular sites of Mount Ngauruhoe, Mount Tongariro, South Crater, Red Crater, Central Crater, Emerald Lakes and the Blue Lake were behind us, we still had quite a distance to get to the end of the track.
We walked for a couple of hours at a mild descent that felt harder on the knees than any of the walking we had done so far. With a well maintained path to follow the walk was much less rugged. Despite the beautiful landscape all around us, we still had one last spectacular thing to see on our way to the finish line.
As we passed the warning sign to let us know that we were entering an active volanco hazard site, we saw the steaming vents of the Te Maari Crater, which erupted only two and a half years ago in August two thousand and twelve.
Whilst Rich crossed his fingers to see a small eruption when we were there, I crossed mine in the hope that we didn’t. I did not want to run the last five kilometres of the twenty kilometre track!
As our walk changed from mountainside landscapes to a forest, we enjoyed the first bit of shade we’d had since the sun rose. Rich and I were both ready for the track to end once we’d seen all the spectacular sights but there was no chance of an early finish and we had to plod the last five kilometres like everyone else to the Ketetahi Carpark.
We were expecting the walk to take us around eight hours but with the fantastic weather conditions and fuelled by the spectacular scenery around us, we completed it in six hours. Not only were we thrilled that the day was a huge success, we were delighted that we could get back to the hotel bar and enjoy a celebratory drink much earlier than expected too!
Lambs on the loose 